Chris Guyer stepping onto Joy After Pain
Its been many years since Joy After Pain has seen an ascent and for many climbers this climb is on their bucket list. Every November I drive up the valley in hopes this impressive route has started to form but for many years it has never appeared or has only formed its second pitch.
(left) Pillars of the Community and Joy After Pain (right)
This year was the year and we were not going to wait for it to touch. Its December 14th and I can tell its ready to be climbed. Call it a sick sense but I knew it was time to go and get after it. Joy After Pain had pretty much stopped getting any better which meant it was going to begin to sublimate and it was now or cross my fingers and hope for another year.
Chris getting some high protection before making the moves onto the ice.
Chris making the moves onto the ice
Chris got dibs on the first lead and Tanner and I were super psyched for him. Chris did a great job leading through the crux and getting on the ice.
Damn I love this place
Finally I get my go on the second pitch.
Looking at the 3 pitch of Joy After Pain (left)
Tanner Calender on the 3rd pitch of Joy After Pain
The 4th and final pitch of Joy After Pain wasn’t quite touching yet and we were bummed.
Cheers, Aaron Mulkey
Aaron and all,
Good job, great flicks. Presumably you couldn’t dry tool to the right (around the curtain) to get above the death daggers & onto the solid column above or you would have done so?
What did you rate the route – WI 5+?
David im not sure I understand the line you are talking about. A direct line on the right would only be possible if there was some sort of protection. The line we choose was the only way to get on the ice and still protect it. I would rate the climb WI5. Thanks for the good words and glad you enjoyed the pics